This month was a bit of a “ doing everything” type of month. I got the rear outer skins printed again, well for a third time technically because I got them
printed by at the wrong size. Some more 3D printing was going on including the bases for the holo projectors and I managed to get my pre-amp delivered as well.
Some 3D parts were the Radar Eye which I had a bit of an issue with because my theory is that at a certain point on the Z axis, I believe that my cog which feeds the filament into the tube to the nozzle stops pulling. Gravity doesn’t help either but there’s nothing I can do about that sadly so right at the top of the radar eye there was quite a bit of under extrusion. I used a mix of filler and decorators caulk to fill in the gaps and it’s nowhere near perfect. I do want to reprint it at a later date but there is something about fitting the radar eye that really makes a difference to the dome.
I also printed the utility arms which were fun to do however for some reason I wasn’t able to merge them into a single print. The thing I’ve found with my prince is that I need to take more time with them, there are plenty of lines with them and partially I found that if I print with a minimum of 3 outer walls then it firstly stops or at least helps stop all the inner supports from being visible in the final print but i need to stand and invest in some proper filler and take more time. I think I will be redoing a lot of my parts at a later date.
I finally received the magnets for the horse shoes this month as well. My plan was to stick 2 attracting magnets on the back of the horseshoe and on the front of the legs, theoretically they will be strong enough to keep them held in place whilst moving however the problem is I can’t find glue strong enough because sure they hold onto each other but when I take them off they rip the magnets out of the holes!
I did receive my Syren10 finally however I’m still without the dome motor. I decided to hook it up anyway with one of the drive motors and so far it all works! For anyone wondering about the dip switches, I suggest following Dan Kraus' Documentation on the Padawan360 Guide for information regarding the dip switches. Saved me so much time!
On a complete side note, I’m working on a 3D model 1:1 scale of T3-M4 from the KOTOR game, there are only a few in the world made and there are no “ official “ plans for them. Not saying that mine will be 100% accurate because we simply don’t know but hopefully it’ll turn out somewhat decent!